Abstract
Fermentation is gaining interest in cosmetics as a sustainable method to produce high-performance ingredients. Fermented plant extracts and probiotic compounds boost anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and skin-repair effects through bioactive metabolites. These support hydration, skin barrier function, and microbiome balance. Advances in precision fermentation allow scalable, consistent production with lower environmental impact. Generally well tolerated, fermented ingredients represent a versatile, effective, and eco-friendly innovation for future skincare and dermatological applications.

The use of fermented ingredients in the personal care industry is rapidly increasing, driven by consumer demand for natural, sustainable, and high-performance formulations. The use of living organisms (or their parts) to generate desired products has been practiced since the origin of civilization. Today, the fermentation process offer sustainable solutions for many industries. In this context, the interest in fermentation for the cosmetic started to emerge, with fermented plant extracts as popular ingredients in various cosmetic and dermal applications [1, 3].

Bioactive Compounds and Mechanisms of Action

Fermentation has the capability enhance the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, wound healing, anti-melanogenic, and antioxidant properties of plant materials, which makes them valuable addenda in today’s skincare regimens. In particular, fermentation thorough probiotics attracts a lot of attention: probiotics have been demonstrated to possess a number of skin-beneficial features, including the ability to reduce skin inflammation, and they are essential for enhancing the skin barrier, promoting water absorption, and delaying the aging [2,3].

Dermatological and Cosmetic Applications

It has been shown that metabolites, such as glycerol and fatty acids produced by naturally occurring skin microorganisms, benefit skin health. As a result, probiotics and skin-friendly microorganisms and their metabolites are common constituents in skincare products [3]. Overall, these findings underscore the increasing relevance of fermentation-based actives in dermatological and cosmetic science.

Precision Fermentation and Sustainability

Fermentation has been part of human practices since ancient times; as technology evolved, fermentation became one of the cornerstones of the biotechnology industry and the path to more precise applications opened. In fact, precision fermentation represents another significant leap in fermentation technology, to produce specific target compounds [4]. This approach significantly reduces reliance on conventional chemical or agricultural resources and improves the environmental sustainability of ingredient manufacturing [4]. Moreover, precision fermentation enhances process reproducibility, scalability, and standardization, ensuring consistent product quality and performance across industrial applications.

Safety Assessment of Fermentation-Derived Ingredients

Safety evaluations indicate a generally favourable toxicological and dermatological profile when used within established concentration limits: this is because, compared to natural agricultural raw materials, fermentation reduces the presence of pesticides, heavy metals or other components [5]. Such findings support their safe incorporation into topical formulations and reinforce their potential for widespread adoption in the cosmetic industry.

Success Case: SeidoTech® Lux as a Fermentation-Derived Cosmetic Active

A representative example of the industrial application of fermentation-derived cosmetic ingredients is the development of SeidoTech® Lux, a multifunctional active produced by the ROELMI Group and obtained through the fermentation of upcycled Vitis vinifera leaves. In this process, an agricultural by-product was valorised using Lactiplantibacillus plantarum PBS067 (property of SynBalance company), enabling the bioconversion of the raw material into a bioactive-rich product with enhanced functional properties. The resulting ingredient demonstrated significant antioxidant activity, a dose-dependent reduction in melanin production in stimulated cellular models, and the ability to inhibit glycation processes associated with skin aging. This case highlights how fermentation can improve the bioavailability and efficacy of plant-derived compounds while supporting circular economy principles and scalable production. Overall, such developments exemplify the potential of fermentation technologies to generate high-value cosmetic actives combining efficacy, safety, and sustainability.